Leekeblommen - WordPress.com

Sailing around the Faroes
See also photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/sintnicolaas365/FRoyar26Juni3Juli2010?authuser=0&feat=directlink
It was a fantastic journey we made in late June, early July 2010 when we were
aboard the Enniway, the sailing ship of Hávarður Enni.
We came in contact with him through his website http://enniway.com/
After a little research we learned that he is the only one with whom you can
book a boat with skipper for a round trip on the waters around the Faroes.
Hávarður is a skilled sailor who from childhood has sailed around the islands. He
knows the ins and outs of the waters and that's a good thing. The conditions can
change rapidly. You can experience the four seasons of a year in one day as they
say on the Faroes. Apart of that there are several life-threatening currents and
many "rocks awash".
Hávarður picked us up from the airport Sorvagur that is fifteen minutes from
the harbor and took us to the Enniway. This is a comfortable yacht with a
permanently heated cabin, toilet, shower, good galley and a drinks cabinet
aboard. We slept in the prow of the ship. The captain showed us the new sailing
overalls with built-in lifejacket and we fitted them, made an excellent meal for
us and we learned to know eachother.
Trip to bird island Mykines
The next day we took the ferry to Mykines with a harbor where the yacht is
not able to moor. We took our backpack and rain pants and made a big tour to
the western tip of the island. Many birds seen, including two colonies of gannets
and puffins and the caves that serve as nesting. On 2/3 e of the walk it started
raining, so the last part we walked in rainwear. In Mykines we were a while
seated in the Kristianshús to dry and after the rain stopped we walked through
the village for a look at the church and the rhubarb and angelica gardens near
church and houses. In the evening back at Vagur we went by car to a very
remote village that is only since a few years connected with the rest of the
world through a tunnel. The snipes buzzed around us.
Sailing
The next day we went "under sail" around the north of the island Vagur. The
islands seem extremely rugged and inhospitable. Only sheep. There are only few
boats, including the ship of the Danish Queen that accompanied us for a few
days. At the southeastern tip of the island the 'troll finger’ a finger-shaped
rock is pointing up. The finger looks mysterious in the clouds.
In a small harbor on the island Hestur we disembark. We make a walk on the
island while Hávarður cooks a meal with hot salmon on his barbecue. The
weatherv is nice so we even can eat outside!
Visit to the cave with the Danish Queen
The next day on an expedition with a fast dinghy Hávarðurs Birgir father with
his two-masted schooner cruise here. We climb a rope around a smooth rock on
the way to an impressive bird rock, a deep gorge where 30 feet below the sea
washes and a beautiful high dome of mossy rocks that you must see. Great.
Later, a musician who picked up life to a cave which will give a concert in honor
of the Danish Queen. We make that concert too. Very special just because you
ship the cave invaart. For paying guests Birgir found in this cave more such
concerts. We hear about the music culture in the Faroes, the training of
musicians in Iceland and Eivør Pálsdóttir, the famous pop singer and the Kristian
Blak (of Danish origin) Faroerse godfather of the music.
In the South Island
In the afternoon we sail on the sail a long trip up to 11 o'clock in the evening
last. We pass Sandoy, Skúvoy and Stura and Litla Dimun and end on Suduroy.
The landscape that we see on the road is fascinating, rugged and wild with the
most unlikely places sheep. It sails nice little breeze, calm sea but the ship sails.
The destination of the day Tvoroyri. It is pronounced as Twürrürrü.
Unfortunately, the cafe at eleven o'clock in the evening close. Hávarður knows
almost everyone and can arrange anything but the bartender kent'ie apparently
not.
The first breakfast next morning under the watchful eye of an uncle and
another friend of the skipper who drop by for a cup of coffee and a chat. We
learn something about the preservation of a slaughtered sheep in autumn and
winter. You hang them just outside in a ventilated slatted shed. Many families
have winter stock as four of the sheep in a shed hanging and if you know it you'll
see that sheds everywhere. Then a walk through Tvoroyri along the main church
overlooking the fjord and along the Timburhandil.
Then Hávarður with a walk to the cliffs on the north side of the island by the
bare and rugged sheep country. Nice view Litla Dimun as a floating haystack in
the middle of the sea. Then coffee cafe in the port, where historic photos
hanging. Afternoon a trip by car from Hávarðurs uncle. We see the only grove of
the island (built by Hávarðurs grandfather) with a small house and a garden in
there. Stories about climbing the opposite "mountain" on New Year's, as a
family tradition. We drive to the harbor town Sandvik where a boat from the
traditional model is on the side and continue the journey to the west of the
island and look at it across the ocean to 'Greenland'. It was formerly the
landfill - but throw in the ocean, but Hávarður talks about the increased
environmental awareness. Nice weather, beautiful country.
Return to the North
Because the flow leaves - about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, cast off the ropes
again and the water to the north, destined Nolsoy. A long swell and a nice
breeze make for a nice cruise. Along eaten. We arrive in the evening at about
half past eleven, and are received by a guitarist on the quay. That just comes
from the ship of Birgir Enni. After his lust he aubade another beer on board
with us.
The next day we walk through the village Nolsoy with many picturesque corners.
Faroerse knitted mittens bought it a little to continue in the tradition of the
woolen stocking export previously (17 th century) on Holland occurred. It is very
quiet because everyone works in Torshavn. Hávarður let us later what other
areas of the island. We visit Jens Kjeld, the ornithologist with endless stuffed
birds including many puffins. He has such a book about the history of catching
and eating the birds made. Separate male, originally also a Dane. Despite the
distaste that many of the Danish Faroe managers 'domination' have, it appears
that the (originally) Danes for the study of nature and history of the islands are
very important. They emphasize the importance of these particular aspects of
the Faroe Islands where the inhabitants themselves, perhaps because many local
cultural, religious and political interests - not a detached view can or want to
throw. We hear wonderful stories about the tripartite division of the Faroerse
society: the strict religious group, the Socialists who also important to explain
everything for his own people and the liberal part where the entrepreneurial
types as our host belong.
Torshavn, the capital
At the end of the afternoon we start the short crossing to Torshavn. Upon
departure, a stiff breeze blowing that way ever stronger. The wind whistles
through the rigging and there is every reason to hold on tight. We must be
careful because of the poor visibility on the movement of other traffic,
especially due to the rapid naval ship maneuvering unclear. It is vigilant and the
journey takes longer than expected but within the piers of the port of Torshavn
there will be peace again. We explain and bring order back into the ship. After
a visit to another ship, a French couple - he is of Polish origin, who have many
years every summer to the northern ice boating and there investigating nature,
climate and ship materials. Every year they put on there and back in Torshavn
and have become good friends of the family Enni. So many sailors there is not
the Faroes! Very interesting people with a nice glass of French wine on board
(and even more than a glass). Their ship is reinforced, insulated and packed with
all kinds of supplies. They have, for example along two spare heaters.
The next day a car tour with Hávarður on Streymoy and Eysturoy include along
two fish processing companies and a tour of Europe's largest fish heads drying
(provides very high protein food). In Leirvik at a Danish archaeologist to us that
at the request of the fish heads Director talks about the excavation of the
ancient settlement from the Viking age. Again it appears that the political
influence on the official view of history. The "fundamentalist" Christians of the
Faroe want that Christianity was brought by the Vikings. The former-Christian
presence in various locations demonstrated-is therefore officially silenced .....
Buzz Aldrin where have you gone?
We drive to Gjógv, where in Mattias 'Buzz Aldrin where have you gone' long
camped. We had still visit this place because the description of the islands in
this book by Johan Harstad is indeed the reason for the Faroe Islands to visit.
Almost at the end of the world, but with a delicious waffle bar. Further along a
bunch of rocks in the water, where the trolls have tried to drag the Faroe
Islands to Iceland - attempt fails.
Grindadráp
Back in Torshavn strolling along the many corrugated iron houses, at Cafe Natur
(also a place of Mattias) a nice chart gallery (Danish operator), a wooden church
and the place of parliamentary democracy and the government: a collection of
wooden buildings. While we look around we hear much noise of motor boats.
What's up? Back at the boat show Birgir Enni and his men have been looking for
us. We had them gemoeten in the dinghy. Fortunately, he stopped by to pick us
to sail. There is a grindadráp ongoing: the capture of a piece or 20 pilot whales
and small whales. We have our captain the whole trip that ignited the crazy "he
could let us no whales, but now we see the whole spectacle. Until the age of 30
years ago, the catch was essential to the food supplement. Now the increased
prosperity if it is not a motive. It is the tradition that the people on the water
drives a school of pilot whales to outwit. Because the pilot whale at the end of
the food is meat, it seems not very healthy. Yet, as soon as pilot whales are
seen, there is great alarm, speed everyone and everyone can get a share in the
catch. That we're still experiencing. Upon request we get an explanation
showing that the pilot whale population is not threatened and that we Faroe
managers this tradition-arising out of pure necessity of food, should give. They
give us also the fact that our factory farming of pigs and cows therefore a much
less pleasant life than the whales had!
Evening to a pub near the harbor where we a good amount of new and on that
day for the first presented - rhubarb beer should taste.
The next morning early and take a taxi to the airport. Unfortunately, the trip
to this very interesting country with extremely friendly people is already over.
Lots to think back.
For anyone who is also a time with that nice and knowledgeable skipper Hávarður
Enni such a great sailing experience is: Look at http://enniway.com
A selection of our photographs that give an impression of the landscape and the
buildings (there are quite a few weathered doors) can be seen at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/sintnicolaas365/FRoyar26Juni3Juli2010?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Back to ' www.leukeprojecten.nl '